The Family Meal – Friday, June 23rd, 2017

Hello Friday,

Let’s get right to it today…

Lists I like: Eater’s Young Guns 2017 is out, including full profiles of: Suzi An (Creative dir. of operations, Salare and Junebaby, Seattle, WA), Trigg Brown and Josh Ku Chef/partner and managing partner, Win Son, NYC), Amelia Ekus (GM, Twitter Corporate Café, NYC), Jesse Ito (Chef / Owner Royal Sushi & Izakaya, Philadelphia), Debbie Michail (Chef, LogmehLA, LA) Daniela Moreira (Chef/Owner, Timber, DC), Kim LeVine (Dir. of Operations, La Vara, Txikito, El Quinto Pino, and Tekoá NYC), Laura Loomis (Pitmaster, Two Bros BBQ Market San Antonio), Elias Majid (Founder, Eli Tea, Birmingham, MI), Mimi Mendoza (Pastry Chef, Senia, Honolulu), Dave Park (Chef/Owner, Hanbun, Chicago), Charly Pierre and Minerva Chereches (Head Chef and Dir. of Operations, Fritai, NOLA), Aaron Polsky (Bar mgr, Harvard & Stone, LA), Colleen Quarls (Chef, Turkey and the Wolf, NOLA), and Lou Sumpter (Chef, Woodberry Kitchen, Baltimore).

The Big Move – It’s not just restaurants getting priced out of NYC, food media is on the move too. Per the NYT, “Food & Wine, the glossy, chef-focused food magazine, is moving to Birmingham, Ala., joining a stable of other publications owned by Time Inc. … Hunter Lewis, the editor of Cooking Light, will become Food & Wine’s new editor in chief.” What’s in Birmingham, you ask? “Food & Wine will take up residence in the multimillion-dollar complex — housing 28 test kitchens and 13 photography bays and video studios — that Time opened in 2015.” Not bad digs.

Update: Lewis just tweeted, “To clarify: we will maintain key digital / print / wine / resto and test kitchen ops in NYC. Super important.”

Once you go vegan… You can go back. Nick Erven just did. His eponymous restaurant in LA is serving meat and dairy now, and all the commenters on his explanatory Instagram post seem supportive. Of course, I bet if you go to the darker corners of the vegan web, you might find a few dissenters…

The Wurst: In the Bay Area, Eater SF has it that “San Mateo’s dining scene is about to get a boost from one of the internet’s most prolific food technicians: J. Kenji López-Alt, Serious Eats culinary director and author of The Food Lab. The project is Wurst Hall, a German/Austrian-style beer hall that López-Alt is planning with partners Adam Simpson and Tyson Mao (owners of nearby craft beer/wine bar Grape and Grain).”

Let’s call the whole thing off: Yes “extra virgin” olive oil has a bit of an authenticity problem, but did you know your cans of San Marzanos are almost certainly harboring imposters? I did not, and even Pete Wells confessed this week he had no idea. According to Taste, “The guy who oversees the certification of those tomatoes [says] at least 95 percent of the so-called San Marzanos in the U.S. are fakes… Some companies don’t even try to hide the truth. One of the more iconic brands in the U.S., with graphic white labels and pretty red illustrations of the plum tomato, is not even from Italy, even though its name is ‘San Marzano.’… The company is merely named after the famous tomatoes, which is completely legal to do in the U.S.” – Full story here, and well worth a read.

Back in the saddle – After taking a bit of time off post Shaw Bijou, Chef Kwame Onwuachi is slated to head up the main restaurant at the new InterContinental Hotel being built at D.C.’s Wharf development.

This Family Meal is brought to you by Add Passion and Stir: Big Chefs, Big Ideas, a weekly podcast about inspirational people who are changing the world. In each episode, Billy Shore, the creator of the No Kid Hungry Campaign (, brings together prominent change-makers and guests from the culinary world to discuss how food is at the intersection of social transformation. 

Guests on the podcast include James Beard Award-winning chefs who have amassed a host of Michelin Stars, joined by leaders in the public and private sectors who are making profound positive changes in the world: Chef José Andrés, U.N. Foundation CEO Kathy Calvin, Shake Shack CEO Danny Meyer, Chef Traci Des Jardins, and many more.  Listen, Subscribe, Rate, and Review:

Design Fans – Pics of the appropriately preppy E.M.P. Summer House in the Hamptons are here. Flag football at brunch? But of course.

Witch Hunt, L.A. – “Culver City bakery mainstay Lodge Bread Co. was forced to take to social media to defend themselves yesterday, after [a freelance food writer] … called for a public boycott of the bakery because they (at the time) believed owners Or Amsalam and Alex Phaneuf to be Trump supporters.” Details in Eater L.A., including the #livefreeandbake post the owners felt forced to make to emphasize they welcome all kinds of customers.

For the bar – George Clooney just sold his Casamigos tequila brand for one billion dollars. One billion dollars. Forbes says the poor guy may only get to keep around $140M for himself after splitting the total with his partners and paying taxes, but not a bad take after only four years in business. Now, WhistlePig is taking bids for its whisky company. Time to follow through on that craft distillery dream?

For the writers: FYI – Eater Chicago is looking for a new restaurant and bar reporter. Details here.

Last and Least – Hate the game: David Chang tweeted this this morning: “I’ve buried pairs of the SB Dunk ‘Momofuku’ [shoes] on the Fuku menu. Go to latest version of the Nike SNKRS app use SNKRS camera to grab your pair.” Nice work if you can get it.

That’s it for today! Congrats again to all the Young Guns, and see you Tuesday for next Family Meal.

And don’t forget to follow me on Twitter and send tips and/or your pre-paid Momofuku shoe codes to If you got this as a forward, sign up for yourself at!

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