The Family Meal – Friday, April 7th, 2017

Hello Friday,

Quick pro tip: If you are getting this as a forward, you should sign up for yourself at

And now the (industry) news…

Just in: Trump and José Andrés settle suit. The WaPo story says terms were not released and it looks to stay that way. No word on whether Trump took the chef up on his offer to donate to veterans’ groups instead of paying lawyers.

World’s 50 Best Restaurants – The list is out. Eleven Madison Park is on top; last year’s number one, Osteria Francescana is now number two; and Blue Hill at Stone Barns moved way up to #11, while Le Bernardin (17), Alinea (21), Saison (37), and Cosme (40) round out the list for the USA. (Easy to manage text list is here.)

Teach the controversy: At least three key questions surround “That List” as Pete Wells called 50 Best this week: 1) Why so little diversity among winners? (See headshots here.) 2) Why so little diversity in style? (See plate shots here.) 3) Is this whole thing just a cynical cash grab / chef shakedown (with a hint of payola) by a trade publication? (See Eater’s “What’s wrong with… 50 Best” here. Plus, here’s how Anthony Bourdain put it this week: “If it were a trash hauling business, they’d be prosecuted under RICO statutes.”) Even the fact that the awards were hosted in Melbourne this year is controversial. And if you really want to delve in, this 2015 New Yorker piece and this GQ story from last year have you covered.

OK, enough about that.

But… follow-up Q: Does Daniel Humm get a statue? Because Charlie Trotter’s was just unveiled in Chicago, and Didier Durand (of the Cyrano’s spots) hopes it will find a home somewhere on Michigan Avenue soon.

Reminder: the new Jeremiah Tower doc is coming April 21. Here’s Wednesday’s very brief interview with him in the LA Times, where he contends he insisted on two things before filming: “The first is that we take the high road with Alice Waters, and the second is that I have absolutely nothing to do with what’s in [the documentary].” Trailer here.

NYC’s “Michelin-starred Spanish restaurant Andanada… looks like it’s closed for good.” WestsideRag reports, “The lights have been off during dinner hours, [and] no one is answering the phone… Heralded chef Manuel Berganza posted on Instagram a few weeks ago that he’s moved on to another project in Singapore.”

The Profile Treatment – Ahead of the release of his “On Vegetables” cookbook, Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon by way of Ubuntu and Manresa) let the SF Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman dig into his life a bit. Here’s the summary: “It took seven years for Fox to finish the book, not to mention a change of city, a new restaurant, a new family and an epic crisis that almost killed his career, but instead transformed the way he cooks.” I suggest reading the whole thing.

Cheap Shot: “At 40, Fox is bulkier, grayer and more press-weary…” Aren’t we all.

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The Restaurant Obituary:Angelica Kitchen was, for many generations of the young, hungry, and weird, a gateway to New York City. The pioneering East Village vegan eatery is slated to close on April 7th, after forty years of operation…” New Yorker contributor Jay Sacher remembers delivering food to Joey Ramone, racing a Beastie Boy down Second Ave, and the average misfits too. It’s all here.

For those in the struggle: Atlanta Magazine has this candid interview with restaurateur Steve Palmer, who founded Ben’s Friends with Mickey Bakst after the tragic loss of chef Ben Murray. Sounds like it’s a good resource for industry folks struggling with addiction and/or depression in Charleston and beyond, with more potential chapters in the works.

Don’t expect a Kushner sighting: NYC bar impresario Ravi DeRossi (Death & Co., Cienfuegos, Mother of Pearl, etc.) is opening an anti-Trump bar called Coup (the “d’etat” is silent) a week from today “near Astor Place” according to the NYT. All profits go to organizations defunded by or fighting against the administration (think: ACLU, Planned Parenthood…), and drinks will be mixed by a rotating cast of high-profile bartenders: “Noted New York barkeeps who have already signed up include Ivy Mix (of Leyanda), Jane Danger (Mother of Pearl), Giuseppe Gonzalez (Suffolk Arms), Damon Boelte (Grand Army) and Natasha David (Nitecap).”

Last and Least – Tweet of the week: After Ruth Reichl posted one of her usual, 140-character vignettes of a cozy, well-fed life – “Mist rising from the valley. So gray. Two deer leap joyfully between patches of melting snow. Butter-toasted oatmeal; cream. Winter lingers.” – Eater’s Ryan Sutton added Saison’s Joshua Skenes, a bow and arrow, and blood. Enjoy.

Oh yeah, and did you get a renewal notice for Lucky Peach? Wouldn’t get your hopes up.

That’s it for today. See you Tuesday!

And don’t forget to follow us on Twitter and send tips and/or Saison’s “joyfully leaping” venison recipe to If you got this as a forward, sign up for yourself at!

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