Good Friday morning! A lot of people with hangovers in the nation’s capitol today – some from joy, some from anger, and some just because the shift drinks flowed while the bosses were distracted… As always, send tips to firstname.lastname@example.org, and see previous rundowns at thisfamilymeal.com.
Here we go, Michelin edition…
This Family Meal is brought to you by World Central Kitchen’s World Food Day – happening tonight! If you’re not already working at one of the many fantastic restaurants that are helping end world hunger this evening, maybe spend your night off going out to eat at one…
The District gets its own little red book – In case you missed it, the D.C. Michelin Guide dropped yesterday. Here’s where the stars are:
2 Stars (“Excellent cooking, worth a detour.”): Inn at Little Washington, Minibar, Pineapple & Pearls.
1 Star (“A very good restaurant in its category.”): Blue Duck Tavern, The Dabney, Fiola, Kinship, Masseria, Plume, Rose’s Luxury, Sushi Taro, Tail Up Goat.
Didn’t see the 3 stars? You’re not missing them. DC is.
The local reaction – While there are certainly several happy chefs in town today, you can’t get much better for understanding some of the bubbling local frustration than Tom Sietsema’s take in the Washington Post. (Though ironically his paper – owned by Jeff Bezos – did not get to break star news because Amazon – also owned by Jeff Bezos – accidentally sent out copies of the guide too early. Tom clenches teeth: “Bezooooos!”).
The New York connection – One last twist on the list: The Inn at Little Washington is farther from DC than Blue Hill at Stone Barns is from NYC. From what a Michelin spokesman told the Washingtonian, seems like Dan Barber just needs to put in a few more hours to catch up with Patrick O’Connell’s 38 years of service, and work on training “so many chefs” while he’s at it. Takes time to become an “icon”.
And for a dissenting view on fine dining in general: Brooks Hadley – Interviewed by Lucky Peach, Brooks talks about his move from Del Posto to Superiority Burger, and doesn’t hold back: “I think Michelin is the biggest crock of complete fucking bullshit—and please quote me exactly on this.” Done.
And in other awards news… The James Beard Awards will stay in Chicago through 2021. Mr. Mayor Rahm Emanuel says New Orleans and SF sent delegations to try to steal the event, but Chicago beat them back (details slimon what that means…) to keep it for the next five years.
Politics politics – Two things: First, after a bit of a lull, Chefs for Hillaryappears to be ramping up again. And second, just a friendly reminder that if you want to talk to Tom Colicchio these days – about anything at all – all you have to do is tweet something at him and include your thoughts on Trump. He can’t resist.
Up and comer – After three straight years holding Bib Gourmand status (Michelin theme going here…) at Ada Street in Chicago, Chef Zoë Schor is stepping out on her own to open Split-Rail there later this year. The menu tease sounds familiar with a hint of innovation…
“Union Square Hospitality Sommolier Shuffle” – Not my title, but Levi Dalton has a good rundown on the many, many moves happening in the wine cellar at Danny Meyer’s house.
Mario Batali scored the Italian State Dinner – Wheeeeeee!
What your guests should be reading – Esquire Magazine’s Jeff Gordinerspends a night at Bâtard under Markus Glocker to remind the eating public that their amateur chef skills are just that – amateur. It’s always somewhat satisfying to see a writer get their ass kicked in the kitchen, which is why I keep my damn mouth shut.
Family, chicken, waffles, cockroaches, and soul – Gladys Knight (yes, that one) is suing her son for running a namesake chicken and waffles chain in Georgia that’s having trouble keeping the cockroaches out. Can’t for the life of me figure out how to work a Midnight Train joke in here, so I’ll just let you know she’s on tour this fall.
And that’s it for this Friday. Check out past issues at thisfamilymeal.com, or hit us up on Twitter. Many thanks to everyone who’s working in #worldfoodday restaurants tonight. Here’s hoping the checks are yuge!